If you say you complained about the food you were served at a restaurant, maybe people will understand you tried to be as polite as you could and made a point not to call anybody's attention. On the other hand, if you say you kicked up a fuss about the food at a restaurant, people will have an idea of what a mess you made. Maybe they'll think you were so upset at the restaurant while kicking up a fuss about the food that the manager came to apologize. You see the difference? Although "to kick a fuss" is the same as to complain, the expression makes it clear the complaint was pretty bitter.
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